mo pinball mo problems

This Sunday I am getting a local pinball tech in to run through a laundry-list of things I need help with.  I am all tapped out on pinball funds, but this will be worth it, and will be my last expenditure for 2013.
This guy is a veteran with 25+ years in pinball/arcade.   He says he can fix most machines in under an hour, but I scoff at that estimate and present my massive Plan Of Attack: A Summary Of All Things Broken Pinball!!!

This is my strategy, laid down in the order I think should be priority, with links and notes to whatever I could find on the issue.  The guys knows his stuff and doesn't need much from me, but if I can gather all of the reference photos and schematics in one place for him in advance, he might even be that much faster. 

1)  Inspecting Street Fighter 2 for shorts and other damage!
I had SF2 snap shut on me while I was under the playfield and I haven't turned it on since.  I found a similar story on pinside:  They had a short and when it turned on, they fried the board in a big way.
So finding potential shorts will be paramount, and who knows how long that might take.


2) replacing the SF2 Power Module Assembly
I posted this photo of the current Power Module Assembly.  Yeah, ugly.
So I bought a NOS (new old stock) one from Pinball Resource to replace it:

pretty!

 pinwiki has a great little warningfor this section on Gottlieb System 3 games...

CAUTION!!! THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS BELOW DEAL WITH LINE VOLTAGE. LINE VOLTAGE CAN INJURE OR KILL. IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING AROUND LINE VOLTAGE, CALL A PROFESSIONAL REPAIR PERSON TO PERFORM THESE REPAIRS.

so yeah, definitely need a pro for this part.  Just in case, y'know?
They also have this:

Secondly, the F1 line voltage fuse may been blown. This is not too common, unless there is a catastrophic short in the game's power train, but some times fuses die from fatigue.

so.... let's play CSI here.  F1 one was MELTED.
The ground wires to the front were cut.  Pic1  Pic2

I am not sure if these are related, but omg suspicious, no???
At first I was also weirded out by the jumper on the old unit that fed right back to itself, but looking at the schematic we can see that it is optional.  Not sure if it would play in to the scenario though, because hey, sometimes having the power cut when you open the door is a good thing...

3) SF2: left slingshot solenoid engagement
I have documented this recent mystery issue extensively here and would love some expert eyes upon it.

4) SF2: replacing the fuse for the subways/stargate ramps
My theory is that the stargate ramps just have a blown fuse, since they are BOTH not working, and share the same fuse, but since the accident I haven't done anything, so I will have him look at this just to make sure it's as easy as I hope.  I have extra proper fuses ready!
the left ramp coil might be a tad sticky, which might have led to the fuse blowing.  I will have him take a look.

5) Rocky & Bullwinkle:  replacing/reseating the CN1 power cable
Documented here, I have discovered the reset issue with R&B is almost always back to the CN1 connector.
Not sure if he can re-seat things and clean it, or if I will have to order a new one for him to install.  I do not have this part.
From the pinrepair docs:

Power Supply Connectors CN1 and CN2.
On the power supply there are two "square" connectors (opposed to the inline connectors). Connector CN1 provides incoming power to the power supply board. Connector CN2 is a centralized ground plug. If either of these connectors have cracked or cold solder joints on the power supply board, random game resets can occur. Check these connectors for cracked or burnt pins on both the power supply board, and the connector plug. 

Also, there is this note from the pinrepair docs that would be awesome to have done:

For additional reliability on games Laser War to Guns N Roses, it is a good idea to solder an 18 gauge wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. These added wires will help prevent future problems with cracked solder joints on the power supply board components.

I saw the upper-right wire sparking in the connector, so def an issue there.



That's all of the major stuff!
If we are in hour 2 and somehow there is time left, here is a wishlist of other random tasks...

SF2: reattach ground wires at front (might be good to have him inspect since it relates to item #2)
SF2: replace left VUK solenioid with proper one (have the part)
Breakshot:  adjust left slingshot
SF2: replace upper left flipper solenoid with proper one (have the part)
oh and Geoff if you have any metal bits for securing the coin door, please do bring those too.
As well, that grease you were mentioning that was good for the playfield side rails...
and if there is any cash left in my coffers, maybe have him help me adjust the flippers to the dots?  A gal can dream.

Rocky & Bullwinkle: power issue discovered???

I got more gobbledygook on the DMD, meaning CPU board not powered, so I took some time to do a meticulous analysis of what WIGGLING might right things.
In the end, I don't think it's the capacitors.

While running through my tests, I noticed some tiny sparks coming out of this 3x4 connector:

center right.  yeah you.

So in that connector, the upper right wire was having tiny sparks.  I uplugged it, squished the wire in a tad more, and yay the game plays.
So this might mean the board isn't in dire need of resoldering, just that connector needs work!  So will my adjustments be enough?  We'll see.

I got attacked by Street Fighter 2.

I was working on my SF2, trying to clean the metal guide rails to make the playfield more accessible.  I'm not sure if it was my bad, or if it was flimsy, or a combination, but the support bar snapped down and the playfield came crashing down me.

It fell sideways (to its left side) in to the cab, and I caught hold of it.  I was dizzy from the smack to the head, and it had cut and hurt my hands.  Holding the PF there, it was far too heavy and large for me to maneuver.  I was a bit in shock and a tad panicked, not knowing what to do.
After about 10 minutes of straining I managed to allow the front metal bracket to the front of the cab and then use that as a pivot point to help rotated it over and get it back in place.

I was shook and hurt, and walked away to bandage the cuts in my arm.


I'm a bit terrified I ruined something in this, but I am resolved to not try turning it on without a professional on hand to assist me.  Making those arrangments soon.
I'm very much "once bitten twice shy".

I posted up about this at MAACA and someone gave the advice that I totally agree with:  Never use the support bar!
I got a lot of encouragement from the pinball community so decided to take another look tonight and see if I could spot any obvious damage.
In the act of lifting it up, I managed to cut/scrape my hand in 3 places, 2 needing a bandage.  So we have the Dhalsim fireball of the board blowing up, the Zangief body smash of the playfield falling on me, and now the Vega bladed slash to my blocking hand.  How appropriate.

But what is the first thing I see as I maneuver the playfield?

Uggh.

The playfield, on its side, crashed on to the transformer.  Looking at it, the transformer seems to have a badass bracket at the top, so I think there is a chance that it still functional!  The impact MIGHT have affected it, but it doesn't seem visibly rattled.  But oh I will still be waiting for assistance before that first power-on.

near the left metal bracket you can see the impact white impact strikes that weren't there before

the left side of the playfield also bear some inspection, but at a quick glance, I didn't spot anything.

that metal bracket on the left got bent in righting the playfield, but that's the only obvious damage

I still love you, playfield.

Rocky & Bullwinkle: replacing the feetsies

This had been lingering on the todo list:  replace the icky metal feet on this machine, increase the playfield slant, and get it all levelled.
I had the parts since the Pinball Expo, but easier said than done!  You want get the feet off?  You have to support the machine.  Always work late at night, alone?  Then you gotta do it yourself.

The screws and bolts were covered in gunk, which I limited via some Simple Green.  But taking a wrench to the bolts yielded no results, they were just too rusted.
Desperate, I poured 70% isopropyl alcohol over them, cleaned that 15 seconds later, and tried again.  SUCCESS!  The wrench moved the bolt, and after much struggle I was working them off.

Doing each replacement required being under the machine and supporting the leg's weight with my back.  This is on solid concrete, with all that weight on my knees, a hot LCD torch in my face illuminating everything.  Not a pretty site.

But successful nonetheless.  I got new leg levelers, attached rubber casters, and then put moving pads under those.

the old hardware.  ick.

 
STUFF TO DO
diagnose fix power board issues / replace/resolder capacitors
adjust flippers to the dots
try troubleshooting audio connections: excessive hum + hum sound oscillating with light show
replacing the SAVED decals.
find a replacement WABAC ramp.
get/install a Boris button
deep disassemble-everything clean

DONE
install new levellers + casters, level the legs
wire Lion to 32 V instead of 50 V
replace the back box hat trick padding
Replace plastic Lion in hat trick
replace ball drain kicker
Update ROMs to 1.3
remove pop bumper screw.
repair first left orbit (hat trick) switch so that the diverter can work
CLEAN ALL THE THINGS.
replace beer seal

Rocky & Bullwinkle: converting the Lion hat trick to 32 volts

I can solder!  WOOT!
I dropped some coin on some basic electronic hobbyist tools, read some guides, watched some youtube, and had a very specific plan of action to abide by.

For the longest time the LION hat trick plastic was unobtanium.  Each Rocky & Bullwinkle needed a new one, and up until recently there were no reproductions.  And those reproductions are probably already sold out!  (I got mine and replaced that a while back)

The reason they were so rare?  The lion was wired to 50 volts, while the other 2 were given 32 volts.  This is by design, maybe to make the lion seem scarier?

Stitched from a somewhat fuzzy scan going around.  Click to embiggen.

First thing I did was clean the assemblage a bit.  I didn't bother taking it apart, but even so I could get some grime away from the pivot points and clean up the upper left guide wires.

And here is my handy-work!

It wasn't a fabulous job, but it WORKS!  The wires are secure, I ran through the coil test, and we're allllll good.
The yellow/purple wire you see at the left is the 50V power wire.  I bought some heat-shrinking wire tubing and a little torch, but failed a bit in putting butane in said torch, so I will do a better job closing off that wire later.  For now, the electrical tape should suffice.

A selection of my soldering gear:

Starting in the upper left, going clockwise:  wire stripped, flux paste, 16 gauge wire, brass tip cleaner, desoldering braid, 60/40 0.05mm solder, 25W Weller iron, solder pump.

New list format....

STUFF TO DO
diagnose fix power board issues / replace/resolder capacitors
adjust flippers to the dots
try troubleshooting audio connections: excessive hum + hum sound oscillating with light show
replacing the SAVED decals.
find a replacement WABAC ramp.
get/install a Boris button
level the legs
deep disassemble-everything clean

DONE
wire Lion to 32 V instead of 50 V
replace the back box hat trick padding
Replace plastic Lion in hat trick
replace ball drain kicker
Update ROMs to 1.3
remove pop bumper screw.
repair first left orbit (hat trick) switch so that the diverter can work
CLEAN ALL THE THINGS.
replace beer seal




At this point, the only major thing left will be the power board capacitors.  Once I get that issue resolved, the game will be playing 100% and everything else is really just small aesthetic stuff.

SF2: new issues to tackle

I am waiting for my parts to arrive, so in the meantime, let's investigate other issues.

With the ground kind of wonky, the system made a big BooooOOOOOmmmm wow sound when you turned it on, and then had a loud hum.  At the bottom of the cab I disconnected the woofer and now it's much nicer to work on and turn off and on.

I got the driver board in, I put it on to tournament mode free play, and got a few days of good gameplay and analysis before I noticed something new:  

The right slingshot solenoid was always engaged.  Well, actually not always, but always engaged when the flippers were active.

The Q relay (upper right in schematic) is in the cabinet and controls the activity on the playfield.

It is normally off, and when engaged it allows the pop bumper, slingshots, and main flippers to be active.

When the Q relay is not engaged, the solenoid for the slingshot ("Right kicking rubber") is no longer on.

The connector in the upper left, above, is labeled A3J5 and comes in from the lightbox, the driver board.
Solenoid 2 is controller via Q3, R64, C14, and D3.

The first thing I was curious about was if the switches on the playfield were jammed on or had wiring issues.  I used my DMM and confirmed full resistance across the nodes, and zero resistance when I pressed the switch, so they were operating nominally.
Here they are represented in the switch matrix:

click to embiggen

The adjoining switches in the matrix also all work, so it's not a switch problem.
I wonder if there could be a spontaneous failure of a transistor on the driver board?
In the meantime I can remove Fuse 17 and just play without the slingshot kicker.

yeah I should go learn how to measure across these properly.

Another piece of the puzzle: 
When I go in to test mode, I get the main test mode screen saying "TEST MODE:  USE L FLIPPER TO CHANGE / R FLIPPER SELECT" but then NOTHING happens.  Left, right flippers, and start button, all do nothing there.  WEIRD.
I noticed this issue at the same time since the first step to look in to the solenoid issue was to check the solenoid and switch tests.


EDIT:  removed fuse 17, disabling the right kicker, and now the test mode works again.
Also:  the switches on the slingshot are fine, the lights still turn on when hit.  This does lead me back to the  driver board components, as the switches are shared for the lights and the solenoid, and those are fine, and at the back end of the circuit the Q is doing it's job fine, so it has to be somewhere after the switch matrix and before the solenoid.

Street Fighter 2: documenting the issues

I'm going to move to a different format for lists.  Numbers won't cut it for this game.  It's a player's game.  It's been operated on, heavily.
There will be much damage to undo, and much healing to take place.
I will just put together a laundry list of things, sorting it from MOST IMPORTANT at top.
Then, I will put together a list of things DONE, just in the order I do them.

TODO
new Gottlieb System 3 power module + fuses
reattaching all of the ground wires
replace VUK solenoid to correct one (should be A-26450)
fix the ramp subways / Stargate ramps  (replacing fuse?)
deep clean of playfield, removing all plastics and cleaning the screws
replace left flipper solenoid with correct one  (should be A-25959)
cleaning the under-playfield troughs
firmly attaching the coin doorreplace playfield glass
replace all playfield rubbers
get cliffy protectors replace 3 Gottlieb flipper bats
Replace car crash flipper rubber

DONE
new beer seal
Flipper rubber for Chun Li
Replaced flipper rubbers (except car crash flipper)
Cleaned backbox charring + replaced dead + charred lightbulbs
initial basic playfield cleaning

This is a weird thing to have:  extended padding at the top of the VUK cover.  Reason?  The ball usually jumps out and BANGS the glass!  Reason?  I found there was a Williams coil in there, AE-24-900, when it should be a Gottlieb A-26450.  New part ordered.  And the playfield glass does need replacing, but not going to bother until this is under control.

This is the right VUK, and it works dandy.

This shows how a lot of the metal parts are going to need some love.

Here we can see the left and right ramps, and I call them Subways but they call them Stargate Ramps.  They are supposed to raise up, giving an extra shot, but neither do.  This seems suspicious!  I checked the schematics and found F25 is a fuse for BOTH, so time to order a replacement fuse.
Hopefully that will do the trick.

Thankfully, the software compensates in the mean time, accepting a successful shot up either ramp when really it is supposed to be open underneath.


Oh did I mention the coin door is basically held on by bubble gum?

ummmm nope.

Yeah...  let's get that taken care of.

F25 (bottom, 2nd from left) looks suspiciously different.

Add this to the list of weird power issues:  There is no LINE INPUT FUSE.  the whole thing looks melted.  PBResource has these entire units on special for $25 so I am just going to try and play it safe and get a replcement.  Oh and that ground wire in the upper right was NOT initially connected.
That fuse F1 is just before the "Line Filter", so who knows if and how that has potentially mucked things up, with the line filter being unprotected.
Once I get this replaced I will begin addressing the grounding issues, as well get in to the known Gottlieb System 3 grounding problems.


I am not sure if it is at all related, but I noticed some sparks/arcing by the right flipper.  the shooter lane assembly here is transparent, allowing you to faintly see through.

You can see the sparks in this short video: