Thursday, October 10, 2013

mo pinball mo problems

This Sunday I am getting a local pinball tech in to run through a laundry-list of things I need help with.  I am all tapped out on pinball funds, but this will be worth it, and will be my last expenditure for 2013.
This guy is a veteran with 25+ years in pinball/arcade.   He says he can fix most machines in under an hour, but I scoff at that estimate and present my massive Plan Of Attack: A Summary Of All Things Broken Pinball!!!

This is my strategy, laid down in the order I think should be priority, with links and notes to whatever I could find on the issue.  The guys knows his stuff and doesn't need much from me, but if I can gather all of the reference photos and schematics in one place for him in advance, he might even be that much faster. 

1)  Inspecting Street Fighter 2 for shorts and other damage!
I had SF2 snap shut on me while I was under the playfield and I haven't turned it on since.  I found a similar story on pinside:  They had a short and when it turned on, they fried the board in a big way.
So finding potential shorts will be paramount, and who knows how long that might take.


2) replacing the SF2 Power Module Assembly
I posted this photo of the current Power Module Assembly.  Yeah, ugly.
So I bought a NOS (new old stock) one from Pinball Resource to replace it:
pretty!

 pinwiki has a great little warningfor this section on Gottlieb System 3 games...
CAUTION!!! THE FOLLOWING SECTIONS BELOW DEAL WITH LINE VOLTAGE. LINE VOLTAGE CAN INJURE OR KILL. IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WORKING AROUND LINE VOLTAGE, CALL A PROFESSIONAL REPAIR PERSON TO PERFORM THESE REPAIRS.

so yeah, definitely need a pro for this part.  Just in case, y'know?
They also have this:
Secondly, the F1 line voltage fuse may been blown. This is not too common, unless there is a catastrophic short in the game's power train, but some times fuses die from fatigue.
so.... let's play CSI here.  F1 one was MELTED.
The ground wires to the front were cut.  Pic1  Pic2

I am not sure if these are related, but omg suspicious, no???
At first I was also weirded out by the jumper on the old unit that fed right back to itself, but looking at the schematic we can see that it is optional.  Not sure if it would play in to the scenario though, because hey, sometimes having the power cut when you open the door is a good thing...


3) SF2: left slingshot solenoid engagement
I have documented this recent mystery issue extensively here and would love some expert eyes upon it.

4) SF2: replacing the fuse for the subways/stargate ramps
My theory is that the stargate ramps just have a blown fuse, since they are BOTH not working, and share the same fuse, but since the accident I haven't done anything, so I will have him look at this just to make sure it's as easy as I hope.  I have extra proper fuses ready!
the left ramp coil might be a tad sticky, which might have led to the fuse blowing.  I will have him take a look.

5) Rocky & Bullwinkle:  replacing/reseating the CN1 power cable
Documented here, I have discovered the reset issue with R&B is almost always back to the CN1 connector.
Not sure if he can re-seat things and clean it, or if I will have to order a new one for him to install.  I do not have this part.
From the pinrepair docs:
Power Supply Connectors CN1 and CN2.
On the power supply there are two "square" connectors (opposed to the inline connectors). Connector CN1 provides incoming power to the power supply board. Connector CN2 is a centralized ground plug. If either of these connectors have cracked or cold solder joints on the power supply board, random game resets can occur. Check these connectors for cracked or burnt pins on both the power supply board, and the connector plug. 


Also, there is this note from the pinrepair docs that would be awesome to have done:
For additional reliability on games Laser War to Guns N Roses, it is a good idea to solder an 18 gauge wire from the "+" lead of bridge DB1 to the "+" lead of capacitor C4. Solder another 18 gauge wire from the "-" lead of the bridge DB1 (the lead diagonal to the bridge's "+" lead) to the "-" lead of capacitor C1. These added wires will help prevent future problems with cracked solder joints on the power supply board components.
I saw the upper-right wire sparking in the connector, so def an issue there.



That's all of the major stuff!
If we are in hour 2 and somehow there is time left, here is a wishlist of other random tasks...

SF2: reattach ground wires at front (might be good to have him inspect since it relates to item #2)
SF2: replace left VUK solenioid with proper one (have the part)
Breakshot:  adjust left slingshot
SF2: replace upper left flipper solenoid with proper one (have the part)
oh and Geoff if you have any metal bits for securing the coin door, please do bring those too.
As well, that grease you were mentioning that was good for the playfield side rails...
and if there is any cash left in my coffers, maybe have him help me adjust the flippers to the dots?  A gal can dream.

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